Friday, September 28, 2012

Blouse and Skirt: Prototype finished

This is a mockup (although wearable) of a vintage blouse and skirt set for the Resinsoul body.

I based it on a sewing pattern cover from 1940 reproduced in Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1940s.

I made this mockup out of cotton voile. I think it is a good choice for the blouse, although it is sheer and maybe too lightweight for the skirt.

The gathered detail on the blouse yields an interesting front pattern piece: it is cut on the fold, but a section on either side of the center front are gathered up. 

The angled piece at the top left side is the top of the armscye; the horizontal piece below is gathered up, pulling the curved bottom part of the armscye into alignment with the top part.

My first attempt here rides too high above the bust point, and creates a fold across the bodice that make it look like a yoke. Also, the print fabric disguises the cool details. The next version will be a solid color.

I will move the slit to near the bottom of the armscye, and make the slits not as close to the center front of the blouse. I will also maybe widen the gathered section just a bit to accommodate this doll's generous bosom.

It closes in the center back with three snaps.

The sleeves are gathered at the cap and the wrist. I will make the cuffs just a little bit bigger around next time, and maybe narrow them a little bit. I could barely fit the snaps on.

The skirt is an 8 gore style, and will have pockets on the final version. I made this mockup to close on the left side, but this doll is so skinny that the pockets would overlap that opening. The final version will have pockets and close in the center back.

This waistband is a little too wide, and it also rides a little high. I will lower the top of the skirt a little bit, narrow the waistband, and include belt loops. I think the middle of the waistband should lie at the natural waist. I cut the waistband on the bias and I think it works well.

The length of the skirt is good. The final version will be lined.

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